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A used farm tractor is the perfect solution for a growing farm wanting to grow and cut costs at the same time. Used farm machines generally come with a much lower price tag then a brand new tractor for sale, but you still need to do your research and set your budget before you head out to look for used tractors around your area. A cost-effective solution for farms with less capital to purchase new tractors is to buy a compact tractor, which has the capabilities of completing many different farm jobs. Compact tractors also come in a variety of different engines, so you can pick the best size that is appropriate for the work you will be doing in your farm.

If you are worried about buying a lemon tractor, then you should purchase certified used tractors from reputable agricultural equipment companies like John Deere (my personal favorite), Kubota, Caterpillar, Farmall, and Case for example.

If you find that your farm work is much lighter, then purchasing a compact tractor might be the best option. Compact tractors come with many parts that let you do a variety of light farm work.

Where To Find Used Tractors For Sale

An experienced farmer or buyer of agricultural equipment like tractors can tell you that there is no real benefit of buying a new tractor over getting a used tractor for sale. While there are some clear benefits of getting a new tractor over a used tractor, both can equally get a good amount of work done.

The first places you should look to find used tractors for sale are Sears, local auctions, and local distributors of franchised agricultural tractor producers. You might be surprised that many farms in your area might be selling their used farm tractors to upgrade to a more heavy duty and technological advanced tractor.

Checklist For Buying A Used Farm Tractor

1. Spare Parts – Whatever you may choose, be sure to know about any replacement parts that need to be purchased frequently, so you know your average yearly investment in the used tractor.

2. Age – The age can give you a better estimate of what you can expect the price to be on the tractor, and you can keep this average with you so you know if your really getting a deal when its time to purchase the used tractor.

3. Engine Hours – This correlates with “age”, because you want to know how much life the tractor has left. Some used tractor sellers will sell you a machine that’s ready to work for a few months and then die. So do not just look at how the used tractor looks like in general, look under the hood!

4. History – Its best you know from the current owner what the used tractors jobs were around the farm and about many repairs it has undergone. Beware of lemon used tractors, always ask about the repair history and/or major damages done to the used tractor.

5. Make & Model – This is not as important, but some farmers have created a loyalty to some used tractor brands, such as John Deere. Ask friends and family about their personal experiences with used tractors, and you can even go to online forums for opinions on a specific used tractor model.

6. Cabin – If your used tractor is going to do a lot of jobs around the farm, you want to be sure that you are controlling the tractor with comfort!

7. 4WD vs. 2WD – Do you need more power or less power? This has to do with my talk about if your used tractor will be for light farm work or for heavy duty jobs. The price difference between the 2 can be quite significant, so be sure to sit down and think about this one.

To find out more about used john deere tractors [http://used-john-deere-tractors.com/] visit my website. Purchasing a tractor for a farm can become a big investment. Getting a brand new tractor can become a bigger investment than you planned. I will explain why buying a used tractor can be just as good as buying new. Read my article to learn where to look for used tractors and what things you need to look at during your intent to buy.

A Step-By-Step Tutorial: How to buy a car with bad credit without it turning into a nightmare.

Are you tired of hearing the word ‘No’ when it comes to a car loan? I set up ‘How to buy a car with bad credit’ specifically so that you could hear the words ‘yes’. Who am I, you ask?

I spent 14 years in the automobile business as a Finance Manager so I believe it’s fair to say that I know a thing or two about getting a loan financed, irregardless of your past credit history.

Remember, regardless of your past credit history, you still need a car, want a car and most of all, you deserve a car. You should also be treated with respect and given choices. I’m going to teach you how to have a choice with auto bad credit financing loan.

First of all, all lenders now purchase deals based on what is called a beacon score, which is the same as your credit score. There are three credit bureaus that make up the package. Each lender will choose whichever credit bureau(s) they prefer when looking at your credit or a combination of bureaus.

I highly advise everyone to have all three credit bureaus pulled when checking your credit and to pay for the credit score. If you only look at one bureau, you’re only seeing part of the whole picture.

With the exception of a few minor things, beacon score will play a large part in your approval. Staying within your financial means is another, so be realistic. If you make $2500 per month and have $1200 going out, don’t walk in all high-and-mighty and tell the Finance Manager that you will only have an Expedition or nothing. You’ll end up with nothing.

In order to effectively use auto bad credit financing, you are going to have to know what your credit looks like and what your credit score actually is. Otherwise, you are working in the dark.

Pay for the credit score or it’s just almost useless. With the credit score, you will know whether or not you qualify for a lender such as Ford. Also, the higher the score, the lower the interest rate. Got it? With an auto bad credit loan, the higher the beacon score, the better.

Let me explain websites like cars.com and the such: They collect applications for car loans online. They then have a network of dealerships that PAY them for the leads. These are generally dealerships that have departments that specialize in getting you financed, regardless of your credit. These departments pay for these leads, so most take them very seriously, as they are their bread-and-butter, so to speak.

If you have a lower than usual credit score, a current repo or just plain, all-around bad credit, this might be the way to go. If your credit is really that bad, remember that you are going to need some cash or a paid-for trade in that’s actually worth something.

O.K., now for the step-by-step system that I promised. First, take control of your car deal! You need to be in the driver’s seat, if at all possible. Go online and run a copy of a tri-merge, which is all three credit bureaus, plus pay for your credit score. You can get a FREE copy of your credit report once per year HERE:

http://www.annualcreditreport.com

This is the new Federal law that actually entitles you to receive a FREE copy of your credit bureau once per year and with some other exceptions. This is not a credit monitoring site. You have to run each bureau separately; Experian, Equifax and TransUnion. Then, you have to pay for the credit score.

So as to hold down on confusion, here’s the scoop: Each credit score for each separate bureau will be different. That’s why a Tri-Merge is called what it is called. You can run a specific bureau called a Tri-Merge from one company (there are many-just do a Google search) and you actually get one bureau (it’s actually all three combined but the credit score is also one credit score). It’s more expensive and generally runs around $34.00 but it just depends on your preference.

Now, with your credit score in hand and a copy(s) of your credit bureau, look at your credit. Do you have anything strange on there that is not yours? If so, it’s time to fix it. You should review your credit bureau at least every 6 months to a year. Plus, if your identity has been stolen, you will know quickly. P.S. you can also have a liner placed on the bottom of your bureau that simply states “Do not extend any credit on my behalf without contacting me first. Work # (111)222-3333 Home#(222)333-4444 Cell# (333)444-5555.” Call or write the credit bureaus and request that this is done. You can now do this online for free. Again, do a Google search for all three bureaus listed above.

How do you fix your credit, you ask? I give away a totally FREE book that I wrote on the subject simply for the asking. Email me with Free Credit Repair Book in the headline and I’ll email it to you.

Next in line: Know what you want to buy BEFORE you even go out shopping! Let me make this very clear. Car dealer’s jobs are to sell you a car on your very first visit. A salesman/woman and their sales manager believe that if you walk into their dealership and do not leave with a car, you will never come back again. They are going to hammer on you until they either A) Make you mad and you get up and leave or B) Sell you a car. It’s the nature of the beast. Accept it ahead of time.

What do you want to buy? Where can you get unbiased information on the auto? Again, Google for Kelley Blue Book or NADA and you can get cost, warranty repairs, recalls, and information on problems and tons of info beforehand. Limit your shopping to three models. Keep it simple. Those will be the ones that you will shop for.

Can you afford the car? You may think you can afford the car, but the bank may think otherwise! I have seen this so many times in my career. Automobile economics 101: Take your gross income (what you make per year BEFORE Uncle Sam taxes you) and remember, this income needs to be provable-tax returns, check stubs with taxes taken out or a W-2. If you are self-employed, you will need two years of tax returns with Schedule C’s. This is the income that you actually paid taxes on. Being self-employed can be tough. You may need to combine a spouse’s income if you are self-employed.

Now with your gross income figured out, find out what all of your debts are that are going out each month. Include everything…it’s listed on your credit bureau’s. Example: Car note=$450.00 + House note= $560.00 + Credit card debt= $425.00

Boat note= $310.00 Charge-offs=$1200.00 (yes, charge-offs; these are bills that you never paid and they were written off). Add all of your debts up. With just your obvious debts (including the charge-offs), you have $1805.00 per month going out. I arrived at that figure by adding up all the monthly notes and taking 5% of the charge-offs. 5% of $1200.00 = $60.00. We’re not through, though. Now we have to figure in cost of living-utilities. Each lender has their own algorithm for utilities but a good range to estimate would be to add $300.00. Now we have a total outgo of $2105.00. This is what you have to have to pay your current bills before you take on any other debt.

Almost all lenders will not allow your new car note to exceed 20% of your current income. For our example, let’s assume that your gross income is $5300.00 per month. Let’s take $5300.00 and subtract your debts, which are $2105.00. That leaves you with $3195.00. To make it easy, take $2105.00 and double it. That would be $4210.00. That would leave you with disposable income of $1090.00. What the lender is looking at here is referred to as debt-to-income. They want to know if you have more going out than you can handle. This is strictly a case of numbers and provable numbers. If your gross income was $4500.00 and you had $2105.00 in debts each month, you need to be prepared for one of two things; add your spouse’s income and your spouse to the deal or trade in the other auto. If your debt-to-income is running too close to 50%, you’re going to have a hard time getting a loan for anything. Make sense? The way the bank looks at it is this: you can’t afford both cars so they assume that you are going to let the other (older) car go back to the lender-repossession. That’s their take. Debt-to-income is a HUGE deal.

In this case, your disposable leftover income is $1090.00. 20% of that would be $1060.00. Whoa! Let me be the first to inform you that you are NOT getting a car payment of $1060.00! Why? Well, you only have $1090.00 left over for starters. Let’s be realistic here. Most lenders will slice that in half which will equal $530.00. Your payment call should be around that figure, give or take a few dollars.

How expensive of a car can I buy on a $530.00 payment? Good question and one that you absolutely need to know so that you can pick out the correct car. One answer depends on the term of the loan. You can finance for 36, 48, 60 or 72 months, as a for-instance. That equates to 3 years, 4 years, 5 years and 6 years. I will tell you this: the worst thing you can do is extend the note out the longest amount of time in order to get the payment where you can afford it. That creates a syndrome that now affects over 75% of car owners called being “Upside Down.” It means that you owe more on your car than it’s worth. It also means that you need more money down when you go to trade it in. The only way around that is a lot of money down or a short-term loan.

You can again do a Google search for a ‘car loan calculator’. You will punch in the loan amount you want to borrow, the term (48,60, etc.) and the interest rate. If you have not gotten approved already and know the rate, you will have to guesstimate. Here’s a rule of thumb for you-it’s not an exact science without knowing your credit, but it is a guide you can follow to get you close. Let’s base the rate on your beacon score: that’s what most of the lenders are going to look at.

If your beacon (credit score) is in the 400 or lower range, you will need to figure your interest rate on a new car at 21% (state maximums differ-it could be 18%). If you are looking at a used car, figure on 33%. If your beacon score is in the low 500 range, figure your new car loan as you would for the above-mentioned 400 beacon. If your beacon score is in the mid to high 500-range, figure a new car at 18% and a used car at 27%. If you have a beacon of 600 to 649, figure a new car at 16% and a used car at 20%. If you have a beacon score of 650 to 699, figure a new car rate at 12% and a used car rate at 16%. I may be hitting too high on a few of these, but I live in a state that has the highest rates in the nation. Better safe than sorry.

Get Pre-Approved BEFORE you start shopping. This is the easy part, in a way. Remember I told you at the beginning of this article to take charge of your car deal instead of letting the dealer lead you by the hand. It all boils down to financing. If you can walk in with a check in your hand, you are in control. I will recommend a few companies that are reputable, have a proven track record in sub prime loans and all mail the check to you at home. You then go into a dealership and pick out your vehicle, negotiate and buy like a cash buyer! These companies are Household Finance, Capital One Finance, Americredit and E-Loan. You can do a Google search for all four, apply online, and get either an instant approval or one really quickly. When you are approved, they mail the contract to you and then the check. It’s that easy.

On the final decision for the car-work smart here. There is nothing more valuable than time and nothing more rewarding than piece of mind. Please don’t go running from dealership to dealership. Wrong. Pick out the 3 models of auto that you can afford. If you are looking for a program car (rental), call dealerships and inquire as to whether or not they have any. If you want a new, ask other people that are driving that model where they bought theirs and would they purchase there again. If you start hearing a lot of “I’ll never buy from them again”, move on. Something is wrong. Your new car is only as good as the service you will get AFTER the sale.

Negotiating-Most people hate this. I have only met 2 people in 14 years that enjoyed it; they were both retired and had nothing better to do. One did it for the fun of it and never even bought if you agreed to his price. Don’t waste other people’s time. If you don’t like the car, don’t negotiate on it. When you do find a car that you would own, tell the salesman you’d buy it right then if the price was right and if they provided you with a Car Fax. The keyword here is: ‘If the price is right’. How do you know what a good price is? Well…glad you asked. If it’s a new car, Kelley Blue Book will have dealer cost. Go to: http://www.kbb.com

If it’s a used car, compare used car figures at http://www.kbb.com

And

[http://www.nadaguides.com]

What’s the difference? Most dealers (with the exception of the West coast) will use NADA as their guide.

Here’s what’s transpired so far:

Before you ever drove the car, you went by the dealership on Sunday, when there are no salespeople and you got the Vin# of the car and the equipment, year model and had a good look at it. You already know if you like the car when you drive it, that you would buy it. The list price is in your pre-approved check category, to boot. You’ve already gone online and gotten wholesale, trade-in and retail values for the car.

Retail is what the dealer should ask for the car. This will help you to know whether or not the salesman is trying to add money to the car, or if the dealership is. Trade-in is a figure to gauge approximately what the dealership traded for the car for. It will give you an idea of what the dealer paid for the car, before reconditioning fees and any ticket from service. Now, not every make of car will bring trade-in value. Two that will at this time are a Honda and a Toyota. Those cars will bring trade-in value. Domestic cars generally will not bring trade-in value, with the exception of new, hot models. Other models will only bring wholesale. As an example, Kia makes a great car, but most will not bring close to trade-in value. Mitsubishi is going through changes and also won’t bring close to trade-in value. There are exceptions to the rule: Katrina and Rita-two hurricanes that created a short supply of used cars. If you live in the south, that will be the case for a while. With the exception of a Honda and a Toyota, you can probably be safe offering less than trade-in. Not thousands, mind you, but less.

Take into consideration the other costs of trading for a car. Also, ask the salesperson how long they’ve had the car. If the salesperson slips up and tells you they’ve had it a while, your negotiating should be easier. The reason behind that is that the dealer is paying interest on the car every month it does not sell. The book value is also dropping every month so it needs to go.

Throughout the car deal, make sure they know you are paying cash. Don’t mention that you have a check from Americredit or whoever. That’s none of their business. When you make a deal, insist on the Used Car Manager running a Car Fax before you sign any paperwork. A Car Fax will show if the vehicle has been involved in a serious wreck, was bought back from the original customer or is salvaged. This will put your mind at ease. If you don’t like the Car Fax, don’t buy the car.

Throughout your shopping, I can’t stress this enough-Do NOT fill out credit applications at each dealership. Every time you sign a credit application, the dealer pulls your credit report and your beacon score goes DOWN. That’s why I advise on getting approved ahead of time. There are numerous advantages to getting approved ahead of time. The main advantage is that you are in control, not the dealership. That’s worth a fortune in itself. Their job is to take control of you from the start of every meeting. Believe me; I know what I’m telling you. I lived that life for a long time.

For some reason, should you not be able to get pre-approved because your credit is extremely bad (a discharged bankruptcy is an instant-approval, by the way), and you have to go through an online clearinghouse like cars.com, don’t despair. Continue to follow my previous steps and advice and negotiate and insist on a Car Fax report.

When you do decide on a car and go into the Finance Office to sign the papers, I would like for everyone to know that you do not have to purchase any products in order to get the loan. If anyone in Finance tells you that you have to purchase a warranty and credit life to get the loan, which is a bold-faced lie. Why would a Finance Manager do that? Because they work on commission, also. Surprised? Don’t be. That’s the way dealers set up Finance Offices from the start when they realized how much money could be made. The Finance Manager makes money off of the rate they quote you, the warranty they sell you, the gap insurance and the credit life and disability you buy. That’s how they make a living.

I’m not saying that any of these products are bad, though. I believe in extended warranties. I’m just telling you to shop around first. If you find a cheap warranty, check out the company and make sure they will give the dealer a credit card over the phone immediately when in need of repairs in any state. All in all, I will say this-A manufacturers warranty is always better than an after-market warranty. Always. Just negotiate on it if you want it.

The only reason why you would not want gap insurance would be if you literally paid cash for the car. Otherwise, gap is cheap (should retail around $495) and will pay the portion that insurance won’t pay if it’s totaled. Just remember what I said about the book dropping on a car every month. It will never be worth what you owe unless you put down a lot of money at the time of purchase.

Credit life and Disability insurance are a personal matter. If you have a life insurance policy, it can be used to pay off the car in the event of your death. If you are single, why do you need Credit Life? The only benefit would be if you are married with a family, it cuts down the payout time. In this situation, your spouse would not lose the car.

Disability Insurance pays out for a specified amount of time. It will not pay out for the entirety of the loan. It also has a specified start date from the time you are disabled. It doesn’t just kick in immediately.

This is a lengthy article, but the gist of it is this: do your homework at home first. Then get approved online. Then shop on Sunday. Then go get your car and negotiate on everything. It will be the easiest car-buying experience you have ever had.

Regardless of your credit situation, if you follow my steps, you’ll have a car in no time and you’ll be an educated and informed customer during the process. Good luck!

Alicia Guidry spent 14 years in the retail automobile industry as a finance manager, sales manager and general sales manager.

For additional sources, see:

Bad Credit Car Loan [http://bad-credit-card-applications.com/auto-bad-credit-financing-loan.html]

What I am going to teach you here is the fact that there is a physical reason for our feeling frightened when put into a position to speak in public. That reason is our body’s perception that speaking in front of others is a “threatening situation” that demands the over-creation of adrenalin. And it is the over-creation of adrenalin that gives us our symptoms of feeling frightened.

Here’s the Good News on managing speech anxiety – I can tell you exactly how to control the over-creation of adrenalin within 15 minutes of you having to stand up to give a speech. I am going to inform you of a doctor-prescribed, safe, inexpensive and non-addictive pill (medication) that will eliminate your symptoms of fear almost instantaneously. Therefore, I can show you how to speak in public without the symptoms of feeling frightened. And if you can “speak in public without the symptoms of feeling frightened ” guess what – YOU CAN SPEAK IN PUBLIC”! Since the pill is a doctor-prescribed medication, not an over-the-counter medication, you will have an opportunity to discuss it with your doctor to confirm that it is safe for you to take. But I can assure you – it is perfectly safe for the vast majority of us. This may sound too easy, but believe me once you learn the physical reason for your speech anxiety or stage fright , you will be able to speak in public better than you’ve ever thought possible.

Let me also say this up-front – The information I present here will help those with a moderate to serious fear of speaking in public, as well as give “an edge” to those who do not really fear public speaking, but just want to improve their performance . Those that have used this information successfully have included many in business who must routinely give presentations , show business folks who want to be able to deliver the best performance possible and those who just join an organization and must participate in large meetings once in a while. The symptoms of fear that I will explain how to control are identical to all of us. The only thing that separates us in terms of public speaking is the severity of those symptoms and how we’re able to control them.

One more thing – you do not have to take the medication I will recommend here forever. It is only necessary during the period of time that you are re-training your brain to understand that speaking in public is not a threatening situation and therefore it doesn’t have to create an over-abundance of adrenaline in order to survive THEREFORE, THE MEDICATION IS REALLY A “TRAINING AID”, NOT A “CRUTCH”.

Speaking in public is the No. 1 fear of Americans. It surpasses our fear of losing our jobs, losing our relationships and, believe it or not, people write in surveys they fear public speaking even more than death (although I suspect that given a true life and death situation, they could muster the courage to give a little speech).

Because speaking in public opens the opportunity for us to be judged by others in a very personal way more so than any other activity we do in life. And it is this fear of being judged that creates anxiety that can be paralyzing at times. Simply put, many of us have a fear of looking foolish, of being laughed at, of making a mistake, of being vulnerable.

That was exactly my problem. For many years my fear of speaking in public kept me from advancement in my company because even though I was very competent in my field (in fact, more competent than many of my peers), I was perceived as not being as competent as those that could speak more authoritatively than I. It got so bad I had difficulty participating effectively in large meetings where I was an expert in the discussion area. I had to do something or my career, and my life for that matter, was going to be mediocre, at best and, at worst, a dismal failure.

My background was research and so I began to investigate the causes of my inordinate fear to speak in public.

Simply put – what I found changed my life forever and it will change yours too.

BackGround

When it comes to public speaking, there are several categories of people:

About 5% of the population do not fear speaking in public at all and actually look forward to it in many cases.

Another 10% are apprehensive to speak in public, but do not have a real fear of it.

However, the vast majority of us (about 80%) have a mild to serious fear of speaking in public; we don’t do it unless we have to and we tend to minimize the opportunities to speak in public if at all possible;

Then there are about 5% of us that have an excessive and almost debilitating fear of speaking in public.

I should admit to you now that I have a serious, and at times, excessive fear of public speaking

and am therefore in the “gray” zone between the 80% and 5% categories. Therefore, I know from

experience what I am going to teach you will help the vast majority of everyone who has a fear of standing up and speaking in public. In addition, this information will also help those who do not really fear public speaking, but just want to give a better performance.

Where Does Our Fear Come From?

This, of course, is a hard question to answer. For many of us the cause of a moderate to serious fear of speaking in public cannot be associated with anything in particular in our childhood. However for others, it can be traced back to a particular incident that has triggered the symptoms felt when faced with the necessity to speak in public. Some of us can vividly remember a particular incident in our lives where we became very self-conscious and embarrassed for some reason in front of a crowd of people. Often this incident occurred as far back as elementary school when our self-worth and self esteem were just beginning to develop and may not relate to actually speaking in public at all.

For instance, if we were in a situation where we stood embarrassed in front of our schoolmates without saying a word,— that could be it. Even though we were not speaking in public, our brains perceived our fear just standing there in front of other people as we thought that we looked foolish and/or scared. In a nutshell – what happens to some of us during this type of incident is our brain links our intense negative feelings with merely standing in front of other people as they look at us. It almost sounds silly that deep fears that control us as adults often have such trivial moments of creation in childhood. Often they last only a minute, but it is a minute that can last a lifetime. I’m sure the people who initiated these terrible incidents in our lives so many years ago never think back to them or to us for that matter. They have no idea what they said or did during that incident had such a profound and lasting effect on us.

Our fears may only be “in our head” but that’s enough to make us react as we do to speaking in public and other anxiety-prone situations. I’m sure you already realize – it’s pretty difficult to change what’s “in our head” even if we can figure out why it’s “in our head” to begin with and why we react as we do to perceived “threatening situations” such as speaking in public.

Luckily for us, understanding the true source of our fear doesn’t really matter. For some reason our brains have created a connection/link between standing up in front of people and speaking with a “threatening situation” of intense vulnerability.

And let me say this now – our fears are completely independent of our intelligence. In fact, I believe those with higher IQ’s may actually be more susceptible to fears brought about by childhood events than those of lower intelligence.

Realistically, a deep-seeded fear may not be “curable” (in the clinical sense of the word). This is because it is a result of our genetic makeup and our external & internal conditioning which is a result of one or more of those incidents I mentioned that created our feelings of anxiety in the first place. But, as I’ll explain in a moment – you do not have to cure your fear; you need only to cure the symptoms of that fear in order to be able to function without fear.

GOOD NEWS & BAD NEWS

First, the Bad News!

For those of us with a serious fear of speaking in public our minds create what I’ll call a “malfunction” of our natural defense system. It is our natural defense system that identifies a “threatening situation” that may confront us and creates the “fight or flight” response in our bodies. For us, when put into a position to speak in public our body’s natural “fight or flight” response initiates the over-creation of adrenaline because we perceive speaking in public as a very serious “threatening situation.”

Therefore, the bad news in this discussion is the fact that our minds cause our bodies to create exorbitant amounts of adrenaline completely out of our control. And it is adrenaline that creates all of the symptoms that make us look and feel frightened.

This understanding that it is the over-creation of adrenaline that creates my symptoms exactly at the time when I must speak in public was the key to finding a cure to my speech anxiety. And I promise you – it is the key for you as well.

It doesn’t matter why we react as we do to speaking in public and it doesn’t matter if we remember a particular incident that triggered our anxiety or not. Since our fear is not based on an actual threat to us, we need only eliminate the symptoms of that fear to gain back our self-confidence and function as if we don’t have fear. Intellectually, we know there is nothing really to fear when we speak in public, but our bodies act as if there is and it’s completely out of our control.

Without the symptoms of fear we can speak in public in a more thoughtful and relaxed manner than we ever thought possible. And if we can speak in public in a relaxed manner, guess what – WE CAN SPEAK IN PUBLIC!! PERIOD Really, it’s just that simple.

Now, the Really Good News!

The symptoms of fear of speaking in public are curable specifically at the time you’re put in a position to speak in public by taking a doctor-prescribed, safe, inexpensive and non-addictive medication. As I will explain, this medication allows us to control the cause of our symptoms exactly at the time when they are getting out of control. Therefore, what I am going to teach you will help those of us who have to routinely give presentations for our careers, those who need to only give several speeches a lifetime for wedding toasts, funerals, and the like, as well as those in show business who must be relaxed and confident enough to focus on their performance.

Here’s why -

As I mentioned, it is adrenaline that creates our symptoms of fear and anxiety completely out of our control. But what if you could control the adrenaline your body creates- then you would be in control!! That is what my research discovered and that is what I can show you how to do – control the adrenaline your body creates by taking a safe, inexpensive and non-addictive medication. And once I show you, you can do it anytime you want, on demand – just 15 minutes before a speaking engagement or performance.

Do I Have to Take the Medication Forever?

No you don’t and here’s why – Taking the medication during public speaking engagements over a period of time, allows the brain to re-think how it feels about speaking in public. With the medication, each public speaking event will increase your confidence as you realize you don’t look or feel frightened. Your brain will eventually understand that public speaking is not the threatening situation that it has assumed. The medication can make it much easier to transition through the period of fearing to speak in public and being confident to speak in public. Because of this, the medication should not be considered a “crutch”, but rather a “training aid” that will allow you to re-train your brain to understand that speaking in public does not require an overabundance of adrenaline in order to survive.

My Web site not only further elaborates on this subject but for a small fee you can instantly download the information to give to your doctor so he can help you be confident when speaking in public. http://www.speechanxietycure.com/

Before you begin to actually look at tractors you should know exactly what you are looking for.

Consider the following questions when shopping for a tractor.

What size of tractor do you need?

What are you going to be using you tractor for?

How often will the tractor be used?

Is the tractor going to be used to produce income? Of course, money is often a consideration when shopping for a tractor. Consider talking to people that own tractors and get their opinions.

Be an informed shopper and don’t let anyone rush you. Below are some other things to consider before you begin shopping for a tractor.

Tractor Size

This is obviously the most commonly asked questions regarding a tractor purchase. The average compact tractor consumer owns a 1-5 acre piece of property and uses the small compact diesel mostly for mowing The other tractor consumers usually have between 10-30 acres and needs about a 30 horsepower to complete the necessary tasks.

What are you going to use the tractor for?, is of course, the most important question to answer. Is it just for mowing or will you be using a loader or backhoe on it? Will you be working on rocky or uneven ground?

Dollars & Sense

You should definitely shop around, however, don’t forget that if you are comparing the prices of different makes and models of tractor it can sometimes be much like comparing apples to oranges. As with anything else, some makes and models are made better than others. A few more dollars upfront in price for a better quality of tractor makes more ‘sense’ than having to pay the cost of constant repairs and maintenance.

Different Makes and Models of Tractors

If at all possible, one of the best things you can do to make your life easier, is to purchase a tractor that is easy to get parts for. There are many foreign makes and models that are exact matches to domestic tractors. With that in mind, you can get a parts book for U.S. made tractor and purchase the corresponding part numbers that way. Some parts dealers don’t like to sell parts for a gray market tractor. In fact, dealers of some brands of tractors are being told by a higher authority that they cannot willingly sell parts for gray market tractors.

Diesel Engines

Make sure you get a tractor with a diesel engine. Diesel engines have better performance and usually last longer than gas engines. Implements also work better on diesel engine tractors.

Horsepower

Approximately how many horsepower will you need? One horsepower (hp) is the amount of energy required to lift 550 pounds, one foot, in one second. In a tractor the energy is produced from torque and engine speed. A 100 hp tractor is one with a maximum of 100 horsepower available at the power-takeoff (PTO) outlet.

PTO

Nearly all Japanese tractor manufacturers include the power take off (PTO) horsepower (hp) in their model numbers; however, they do not include the engine (fly) hp. The first two numbers of the model number is where you find the PTO hp. The PTO hp is important because it is telling you the equipment working power of the tractor. It tells you what horsepower that equipment requiring a PTO will get from the tractor. Click here for a more in depth explanation of PTO.

Cylinders

Consider getting a three or four cylinder tractor. Three and four cylinder tractors are generally newer tractors and run quieter and smoother than the two cylinder models. Transmissions

There are several different types of transmissions for tractors. If you are not knowledgeable about tractor transmissions, it would be a good idea if you familiarize yourself with the different types listed below, so that when you go out to shop for a tractor you will well informed.

Manual transmissions on tractors were made to be shifted while the tractor is not in motion. This will cause a grinding noise due to the fact the two gears that are trying to mesh are rotating at different speeds. Manual shift transmissions are known for their durability, however, they are not considered to be very user friendly. The sliding gear and the collar shift are two of the more common transmissions.

Synchro Shift transmissions are basically collar shift transmissions (a type of manual transmission, see above). The difference is the added synchronizers, which makes it so that the gears don’t grind if you are trying to shift while the tractor is in motion. Some synchro shift transmissions only have one pair of synchronized gears, while others have all speeds synchronized, including forward and reverse. The synchronization of forward and reverse is called the shuttle shift. This synchro shift is a dependable transmission, however, just like with automobiles, the more ‘tricky’ the tranny is, and the more chance there is of something going wrong or breaking.

A Power Shift transmission is an option well worth considering. Not those standard shift transmissions won’t work just fine; however, often power shift is a nice little luxury, depending on what you are going to be using the tractor for. With a power shift transmission you can choose different speeds while the tractor is in motion, without needing to use the clutch pedal.

Hydrostatic transmissions operate in a closed loop, the flow of the pump is reversed, which in turn causes the tractor to reverse directions. The hydrostatic transmission is considered to be very dependable and is able to defend itself against ‘operator difficulty’. Because this is transmission is controlled by a foot pedal, when you take your foot off of the pedal the tractor will stop, this is a nice safety feature. Hydrostatic is considered the best selection for such things as large mowing jobs because it allows for easy direction change and continual, unchanging speed.

Implement Adaptability

You will want a tractor with a Category 1, 3-point hitch and standard rotation PTO shafts. Most imported compact tractors are equipped with these items; however, there are a few that are not.

Implement Availability

Before you purchase a a tractor, make sure that good quality implements are available for it. It is a good idea to try to find a tractor with as many model-specific attachments as possible. These include things such as loaders and backhoes, which have custom-fitted mounts that are not interchangeable with other makes and models of tractor. You can often save money if you purchase the implements at the same time you purchase the tractor and some implements can be very expensive to add on at a later time.

Parts Manuals

Sometime parts manuals can be very hard to acquire. Make sure there is one available for the tractor you choose. Ask how much the manual is, sometimes the cost can be over $100.00 dollars.

Warranty

Find out what kind of a warranty comes with the tractor. Find out what it covers and for how long. Below is a checklist that you can print and take with you when you are out shopping for a tractor. Just check things off and take notes as you check over the prospective tractor.

Yes, it’s a very long checklist, but well worth your time if you want to get a good quality tractor at a fair price.

Some things on the checklist may not pertain to the type of tractor you are looking for; however, we believe that most folks will find the majority of information here to be very helpful.

Your goal is to ensure that the tractor you purchase is all that the seller says it is and doesn’t have any hidden problems. Make sure you know what you are looking for. Know what options you must have on the tractor and which ones you might be willing to compromise on or be able to add later.

Tractor Buyer’s Checklist

Make_____________________________ Model _____________________ Year _________ Hours

On Meter________ Asking Price $____________

Seller’s Name _____________________________ Phone ______________

Tractor Location _______________________________________________

Yes/No Notes

Visual Exterior Inspection

Does the overall appearance of the tractor look as if it has been cared for?

Why is the tractor for sale?

Is the paint faded?

Is the sheet metal straight?

Are there a lot of ‘dings’ in the tractor?

Are there any decaying rubber or plastic components?

Are there any structural cracks? Look closely for hairline cracks.

Is there anything that looks like a ‘makeshift’ repair job?

Are the tires in good condition with good tread left on them?

Is there a calcium mixture added to the tires for better stability?

Is there still good tread left on the tires?

Is the seat in good condition?

Does it have a standard 3-point hitch?

Are there any puddles of fluid under the tractor?

Are there any oil spots on the ground around the wheels?

Engine Inspection

Is the engine warm?

Are there oil and/or fuel on the engine?

Can you see any seals leaking?

Is there oil around the rear axles, near the rear wheel?

Is there oil around the PTO seals?

Are there oil leaks around the output shaft seals gearboxes? (4WD

Is the engine oil at or near the full mark?

Is the front axle dipstick at or near the full mark? (4WD)

Does the oil look clean? Black is ok for diesel engines.

Are there creamy white droplets near the top of the dipstick?

Are all the filters U.S. made?

Is the air filter intact?

Does the air filter have any tears or holes in it?

Is the fuel filter clean?

Is the fan belt tight and in good shape?

Does the air inlet tube have any cracks or holes in it?

Is the water in the radiator dark green? This is a good thing.

Does the radiator water have a milky looking scum to it?

Is there flaking or discolored paint around the radiator cap?

Is there moisture along the bottom of the radiator?

Is there any slop in the steering linkages?

Did you closely look over the tractor a second time to make sure you didn’t miss anything?

Running Engine Inspection

Does the oil pressure register when you just turn the key?

Start the tractor. Does it start easily?

Does the oil pressure light go off or the oil gauge go up to about 30-80 psi?

Do all of the other lights go off?

Is the voltage meter (if it has one) charging a full 13.5-14.5 volts

Did you rock the steering wheel from left to right? Do this with the engine running if the

tractor has power steering.

Does the PTO spin in all gears?

Does the 3-point hitch work properly?

Does the tractor continue to smoke after it warms up?

Driving The Tractor (This is the fun part)

Does the tractor work through all of the gears?

Does the power shift feel ‘weak’ when shifting?

Is there any slippage when you quickly accelerate into high gear?

Does the 4WD engage properly?

Does the clutch slip?

Do the brakes work well?

Did you check the brakes by pushing one pedal at a time in low gear?

Does the tractor make any clunking noises from inside the engine?

Does the charging system work properly?

Do the wheels wobble at all?

Hydraulics

Are the control levers in good shape and not flopping around?

Are the pivot pins badly worn?

Does any oil seep out of the extended spools (control valves)?

Are the hydraulic couplers capped?

Does the hydraulics work correctly?

Post Driving Inspection

Did the temp gauge ever get above the recommended temperature?

Did the temp light ever come on while you were driving it?

Did the tractor overheat?

Did the tractor run well even after it got hot?

Do you see any new leaks from the radiator?

Do you see any new oil and or fluid leaks?

Did you see excess smoke when you removed the oil cap?

Did you closely look over the tractor a third time to make sure you didn’t miss anything?

I Hope this has been a lot of information that you where looking for and you will use this information to your advantage and be safe with it.

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Sherry Cochran [http://www.macsebooksparadise.com]

Blogging has become a successful home business for many people. It’s an easy business to start, because there are few or no start up costs. However, if you want to make money, you must have something to sell on your blog – create a “sales” blog.

Although content-heavy blogs on which you sell advertising do make money, these blogs take time before they become profitable, simply because you need a lot of content. How much content? Since blogging has become mainstream, and there are many content blogs, it may take at least 500 to 1000 posts on a content blog for profitability.

“Sales” blogs, which sell products or services, can be profitable with as few as ten to 20 blog posts.

So aim for a sales blog, so your blog becomes profitable more quickly.

Before you start blogging, you need a plan. Create your plan first, before you create your blog. It’s difficult to make money with a blog which hasn’t been set up as a money-maker from the start.

Let’s look at four easy steps to developing a profitable sales blog.

1. Decide what you’ll sell on your blog

To make money, your blog must sell something: a service, or a product. Many bloggers sell affiliate products from their blog.

If you’ve been blogging for a while, you can sell your blogging services from your blog.

2. Make a list of the products, or services which you’ll sell

If you’re selling as an affiliate, make a list of products you’ll sell – reviews of these products will form the basis of your blog articles.

Many affiliate bloggers sell lots of products on a single blog. However, it will be more profitable to divide the products you’re selling into topics; then create a new blog for each topic. This means that each blog can be more focused, and this will mean more traffic.

If you’re selling your own blogging services, set up the blog to do this. Write articles promoting each service you provide. Essentially, the blog becomes your online portfolio.

3. Start blogging, but keep SALES at the forefront of your mind

Next, you can start writing blog posts. However, plan your posts. Planning is vital for a sales blog. For example, let’s say you’ve created a sales blog to sell affiliate products related to pets.

You’ve collected ten affiliate products. Plan articles related to those ten products. You can create review-style articles, as well as general content articles with a link to one of your affiliate products.

If you want to get hired as a blogger, then this must be obvious on your blog, and on every post you write – write several articles promoting each of your services.

4. Promote your blog

Finally, it’s time to promote your blog. There are many ways in which you can promote your blog: with classified advertising, Pay Per Click advertising, and article marketing.

How you choose to promote is up to you. However, do remember that you must promote your blog.

So there you have four easy steps to making money with a sales blog. When you plan your blog for sales from the start, your blog will be profitable for you from the start.

Blogging PLUS coaching ensures that you’ll make money. Pro blogger and copywriter Angela Booth has been making money blogging since 2002. She’ll teach you how to blog the right way, so your blog is profitable from the start, with her bestseller, “Blogging for Dollars” at http://www.abmagic.com/Blog/blogging.html

Angela’s blogging ebook package has a companion blog, the Blogging for Dollars Blog at http://www.dollars2blog.com/blog/ which keeps you up to date with what’s happening in the world of professional blogging.

Every time something goes wrong with your car, you have to take it in to the shop. With every repair, comes that hefty repair bill. As you look at the bill, you cannot imagine why it costs so much to fix your car. You think of how much money you could save if you could do auto repair yourself. However, like most people, you do not have a clue how to repair cars. However, you should be aware that there are many ways you can learn auto repair and can end up saving yourself quite a bit of money.

Friends and Family

If you have any friends and family that are knowledgeable about auto repairs, you should consult them and ask if they can help you learn some auto repair basics. If you have friends or family that are kind enough to help you learn how to repair your car, make sure that you give them something back for helping you. Perhaps there is something you can teach them, or maybe just take them out for a dinner.

Books

You can find tons of books dedicated to auto repair. These books will cover everything from the basics to more complex issues. You can find auto repair books at the local book store, at auto repair shops, or even at the library. If you are looking to buy a repair book, but do not want to spend too much, you should check out a used book store and see what repair books they have available.

If you choose to learn auto repair from a book, you should evaluate your learning process. Some people learn better from books than others. If you have a hard time learning from books, then this may not be the option for you. Also, it is important to know that some books are written better than others. It may be worth asking around and seeing what books are recommended for a beginner.

Internet

The Internet is a great resource to learn auto repair. You can find online repair guides to help you learn how to fix what is wrong with your car. Also, there are several discussion forums where people post tips on auto repair and where you can ask questions about your specific situation.

You can also purchase repair books online. You may find the repair books to be cheaper online than in brick and mortar stores.

Classes

Another option for learning auto repair yourself is to take a class. There are several places you can take an auto repair class. You can take a class from the local college or at a community center. These classes will often be taught in the evening or on weekends to accommodate work schedules.

Get To It

Now that you are aware of some of the ways to learn about auto repair, you should see what option will work best for you. Once you learn more about auto repair and can make repairs by yourself, you can save quite a bit of money for yourself and your family.

Wendy Pan is an accomplished niche website developer and author. To learn more about auto repair yourself [http://myautorepairtipsblog.info/auto-repair-yourself-fix-your-vehicles-at-home-for-less/], please visit My Auto Repair Tips Blog [http://myautorepairtipsblog.info/] for current articles and discussions.

“Can I wash my own dog? It can’t be that hard can it?” These are the words that I hear everyday as I go about my business working at the Pooch Parlor in Northern Idaho. Each time I walk a customer through this process, I find myself wondering why in the world something so simple is so doggone hard to explain. Washing your own dog may seem simple, but – only if you think and speak ‘dog’ – the language of your own dog.

I run a shop for full service and self-service dog grooming and bathing, and I LOVE it! There are dogs, and owners, of every size, every breed, and every temperament that come in to use the self-service doggie wash. Most owners are excited, some are scared, and some are cocky, but no matter who they are, or what they do for a living, there is nothing quite as intimidating for them as washing their own dog in public! The thought of doing this can give even the most confident person, performance anxiety, and for good reason! It is a true test of trust and tolerance and friendship for the person and dog companion. And, on a very basic level, it is an honest mirror for the owner, and how he or she deals with life, and with conflict. The likelihood of a successful experience for both is completely dependent upon the psychological relationship that exists between them, and, to a large extent, the ability of both to comprehend the body language of the other. You may be surprised to know that I have found that dogs are supremely better at reading their humans than their humans are of reading them. It is this relationship between human and canine, that shows itself without modesty during bathtime, and, keeps me coming to work day after day with a smile on my face.

My clients have been giving their dogs baths in my shops for 10+ years now, and, each year is more entertaining than the last when it comes to watching regular people washing their own regular dogs. The average person that comes through our doors is highly successful, which usually means – intelligent – and, because like attracts like, so is their dog. And, so why oh why, they ask me, should this simple task of cleaning their dog be so difficult? I ask them time and again, “Well, how well do you speak dog?” Invariably, their reply is a blank stare. So, this is the time to ask yourself, “How well do YOU speak dog?”

There is a lot to say about the theories of why dogs and humans behave the way they do, but I’m going to get back to the practical things to look for while bathing your own dog. The bottom line to remember is that your dog’s energy and personality traits are a mirror to your own. Take this into consideration when attempting to get him into the tub and have him be happy about it.

1. Deciding when to bathe your dog. Timing and Personality traits: Timing is important. Look at your own needs regarding timing to know how your dog will react. Are you the kind of person that is up for anything anytime? Or do you need to accomplish your day in a scheduled, systematic way? How do you do with new experiences? Do you find them refreshing and fun, or do you feel fearful until comfortable with a new activity? Your dog is going to deal with the bathtime experience in the same way you deal with life experiences. Remember that your dog is going to reflect your own personality traits – not necessarily the traits you show the world, but the traits that are truly inside you.

a. Fun-loving, extroverted, and social humans. If you enjoy regular physical activity, then so will your dog. For this type of person and dog, I suggest you take your dog out for a bout of exercise before the bath. In the city where I work, we are fortunate to have a designated beach on the lake just for dogs and their humans – dogbeach. There is a long path to run or walk on, and there is a large beach area to swim and play in. This is the perfect scenario for pre-bath timing. The dog can choose to get muddy, run, socialize, or just enjoy being outside. In any case, the dog is able to spend big reserves of energy outside in a fun way, just like letting human children play before naptime. If you love exercise, do something like this with your dog before taking him into your own tub or a professional facility for a dog bath. A common fault of the social dog and owner: Just because you are friendly, out-going person does not mean everyone wants to accept your friendly, and out-going gestures. It’s hard to fathom, I know, but it is true. If you have a very social dog (if you are a social person), it is easy to forget that many dogs (like their owners) are not social and do not appreciate the social requirements (like butt-sniffing) of others. Please remember to respect their space when in public or otherwise. Keep your dog restrained and under control, even if your dog has the friendliest intentions.

b. Non-social, active, or inactive humans. If your personality is not conducive to social interaction, then I still suggest that you walk your dog or do something that is comfortable within your life that involves light exercise before bathing your dog. Taking a walk with your dog does wonders to alleviate excess tension or stress for both human and dog. By getting rid of stressful energies during a walk, it does not present itself during bathtime. Getting exercise is especially important for those humans,( I mean dogs), that are highly nervous. I recommend giving your dog Valerian root (liquid form) or Rescue Remedy (liquid or spray) orally 30 minutes before the bath. Both of these products are natural remedies to calming down jittery nerves- and it works great for humans too. If timing is important in your life, take your dog to a self-service bathing facility when the least amount of people are there, usually early or late in the day. A common fault of the non-social dog and owner: they communicate poorly within their own species and with other species. Many people that tend towards isolation, often do this because they never figured out how to communicate effectively in human society. Their dogs typically have the same problem. I have seen it happen many times that owners of aggressive dogs unwittingly encourage their dog’s unwanted behavior, when they think they are doing the opposite. They do this by projecting their worrying thoughts about the ‘what-ifs’ of a social situation. Dogs of this type of owner act out their dog interpretations of their human owners signals. The dogs often pick up the ‘what-if’ fears of the human as the request of their human, actually creating the ‘what-if’ behavior to occur. Without human intervention and boundary setting by the owner (requiring advanced communication skills), it is quite common for this type of dog to exhibit increasingly aggressive behavior. Most owners are dismayed by their dog’s aggressive behavior, but they simply lack the skills required to communicate what behavior they will and won’t allow from their dog. I recommend that if you have a dog that is displaying increasingly aggressive behaviors to consult a professional dog behaviorist or trainer. Just a few simple tricks will convey an accurate message to a dog that is most likely misunderstanding your expectations.

Language barriers for humans and dogs. Its no surprise that miscommunication between owner and dog happens often. If you are a human that is finding you don’t understand why your dog does what he does, remember, you are learning a whole different language and culture. Give yourself time and give your dog time to understand each other. Just don’t expect your dog to act like a human, especially during conflict. It takes time and practice for anyone to learn a new human language. It’s no different learning dog language. We all know how to interpret a human smile in society. When a dog pulls his lips back over his teeth, it typically doesn’t mean he’s happy! Would a human dream of greeting a new acquaintance by sniffing their butt? Right! But, in doggie language, that’s the equivalent of shaking hands. A dog that shakes his head to get the slobber off of his mouth is no different than a person smoothing his slacks or dusting off his shirt to look more polite. The differences are huge, so give yourself and your dog a break if you have hit a communication block wall.

2. Deciding where to bathe your dog: There are not a lot of choices when it comes to bathing your dog. A. You can use your own bathtub at home which requires no human socializing – hard on your back, it’s very messy with extended after cleaning, and potentially traumatizing to human and dog. B. Bring your dog to a self-service doggie wash shop – easier on your back, requires some basic social skills by owner and dog, can be noisy and hairy, requires no after cleaning, and it does cost more than just the shampoo. C. Tie the dog to a fence and wash him with a hose in the yard (hopefully on a hot, sunny day) – not easy on the back, hard on the dog with cold water, potentially traumatizing for nervous dogs, but does not require human or dog socialiaing. D. Wash the dog in your nearest lake -which is very popular in my neck of the woods – hard on the back, requires advanced human and dog social skills, is potentially harmful to the environment, and how clean can you really get a dog in lakewater?

Regardless of where you wash your dog, take into account your own physical limitations, and your dog’s physical limitations. Is it worth wrecking your bathroom and hurting your back to wash your dog at home? For the clients I see, the answer is a definite, no! Emotional requirements are often a factor for dogs. For instance, (in general) Labrador retrievers have no issue being bathed in a lake (even though they don’t get clean), but they often resent being restrained in a tub with a sprayer hose pointed in their direction. For a farm dog that has never been away from home, tying them to the fence is a better solution than trucking them to the city and asking them to have manners in a grooming shop, or in a populated lake. At least next to the fence, even with cold water, they are comfortable with where they are and what is expected of them.

My vote is, of course to find a self-service doggie wash facility. The equipment is professional and easy to use, the water is warm (most of the time) and typically the dogs get treats when they walk out the door, which makes them happy campers. So, for those that want to know about washing your dog at a laundradog facility, here you go:

2. Getting your dog in the tub and getting him to stay there! At this grooming shop, the average dog that comes in for self-service is around 100lbs. All the dogs are washed at waist level where they stand on a grate in the tub. Getting them in the tub can be a trick. It’s kind of like asking a human to put ice skates on, and stand on the ice and not worry about how to do it. The easiest way for dog and human is to not give the dog time to decide whether or not he wants to. (Not the easiest task for shy or overprotective owners). The owner is given a large choker chain or cloth noose which goes around the dogs neck.

Leading: We have the owner quickly lead/pull the dog up the stairs with another person on the other end of the dog to give a quick boost on the butt end. The dog is on the grate, and in the tub before he has decided to be worried about it. Once the dog is in the tub, the owner hooks them in (not something you can do in your tub at home) to a variety of metal hooks inside the tub.

Choking: The dogs that are new to having a bath will sometimes turn in the tub and pull on the choker chain. We prefer the choker chain to a regular noose because the dog quickly learns with a choker that he is in control of whether or not he feels the choking sensation. The second the dog realizes he controls his own choking, AND realizes his owner is going to allow him to learn this (this is very difficult for the overprotective and/or mother types of owners-most all of us!), the pulling behavior stops. With a regular cloth noose, or one that does not self-regulate, the dogs will pull and pull and often never learn that they have the control over their own pulling more than any other behavior during the bath. Owners feel like they are directly causing their dog injury and should rescue them immediately when they hear them coughing and sometimes gagging. It is natural to feel concern over your dog choking, but it helps to think of the dog’s pulling and coughing similar to putting a toddler into his crib for a midday nap.

Many human toddlers HATE taking a nap and will cry hard enough to cough and gag. If parents rescue them from their cribs when this happens, they are reinforcing this coughing behavior for their child. Parents that monitor the crying, and coughing from a safe distance where the toddler cannot see them, soon find that their babies submit quietly to naptime without expecting to be rescued each time he utters a sound. Naps and baths may not be pleasant to begin with, but they are both essential habits of life. Dogs have the same learning behaviors regarding rescue. Owners that react with excessive concern over the pulling (as the dog is expecting), or crying and screaming tantrums, find they are only encouraging more pulling and tantrums from their dog. This point is so crucial that it is worth repeating. The more upset and worried the owner gets over the dogs behavior, the more they get of that dog behavior. If the owner is calm and without fear – and projects this to their dog, it is not long before the dog understands that pulling on the chain is only hurting himself, and that tantrums are a waste of their energy. When the owner believes everything is fine despite pulling and tantrums, the dog does too, and he stops the undesirable behavior accepts that today is bath day!

So many nurturing owners find this part difficult, but try to remember, when you expect your dog to learn how to control his own anxiety, he will learn, but it requires that you LET him learn. The best ways to learn to control ones own anxiety is to actually go through the experience of having the anxiety and dealing with it. If you are the type of owner that cannot allow your dog to experience this emotion without taking over and stopping the experience, your dog will learn to go into an anxious state more and more easily because of the reaction that he can expect from his owner. This becomes upsetting for both dog and owner and as you can see becomes an escalating cycle. If you allow your dog to go through this experience of the bath, anxiety and all, you will see that they will calm down and before you know it, you have a dog that allows you to bathe him! And having clean dog is essential to most dog owners. When your dog does calm down, i.e. quits pulling on the noose and allows the bath experience, that is the right time to express heightened emotion of happiness through praise and treats. If you take this time to praise your dog, it won’t be long before your dog asks to be washed with a happy, wanting-to-please attidude.

However, as with any rule, there are a few exceptions: old, very young, asthmatic, and dogs with neck or throat problems should be closely watched if they exhibit excessive pulling on the choker chain.

Ignore or not to Ignore: Most of the time, I recommend to owners to simply and quietly ignore their dogs protesting to get the behavior to stop (and it does), with the only exception being a small puppy (like a yorkie) or an old and fragile dog. Both the young and the old dogs that are not used to baths can injure their tracheas or create a medical problem (like asthma) if their nervous behaviors are allowed to escalate. It is in this circumstance that I tell the owners to use a harness to hook the dogs in the tub or in the case of a small and wild puppy, to use a sink or bucket in which they can immerse the dog in warm, soapy water. Puppies are wired to swim and that’s what they do if they find their bodies in water. Swimming is easier to work with than a freaking out jumping bean. If you do choose to ignore your dog’s protesting to the bath, REMEMBER to give lots of praise when the dog show’s signs of acceptance and/or begins to calm down.

Drying Your Dog: Drying a dog depends on the type of hair, type of temperament and grooming experience the dog has. If you have a shorthaired dog, towel drying is generally adequate. In the grooming shop, we use high-power dryers that blow the water out of thick or double-coated dogs like shepards, collies, and huskies – and in this case – standard poodles.

Put cotton in the dog’s ears before you begin as the dryer is loud. Make sure there is a minimum of play in the noose or chain that connects the dog to the tub, as the more room the dog has to throw a tantrum, the more room he’ll use. Start the dryer on the back end of the dog and aim the dryer side to side moving towards the head until the water is not dripping off the dog any longer. Most private owners go home with their dogs still dripping because of the tantrum factor. This is where the above information comes into play. The majority of dogs are nervous at first, but they quickly learn that the air is only loud, not painful. If the owner stays calm, the dog will quickly find this state during the drying process.

There are a few more minor steps that do occur in the grooming shop, such as brushing, nail trimming, anal expression, ear plucking and cleaning, teeth brushing and scaling and more. You can check out more ‘how to’ information on these specific techniques at www.thepoochparlor.net. Regardless of who you are or what you do for a living, the chances of your dog having a pleasant experience during the bath is highly dependent upon the ability of the dog’s owner to understand his or her own needs regarding life and society. Consider all the factors, energy reserves of your dog – spend them before the space wherever you go will increase your odds for success. Consider how much you actually do know about dog language. Above all else, remember that you, the owner, are in charge, and that if your dog is temporarily distressed with a new situation, you have to stay calm long enough to allow your dog to understand and accept the experience. It’s a curious notion that a human would have to delve into the basics of his or her own psychological needs to give their dog a great bath experience, but if you do that, you and your canine friend will have many years of happy and successful bathing experiences.

Author DuAnn Lustig-Chambers has been grooming since 1997 and owns Pooch Parlor Pet Groomer Training Academy in Sandpoint, Idaho.

Author: DuAnn Lustig-Chambers
Owner/Instructor/Dog Behaviorist Pooch Parlor Groomer Training Academy
210 Triangle Dr. Ste. D
Ponderay, ID 83852

Multicultural marketing mirrors the changed face of America and is getting the attention of small-business and other organizations looking for an edge in diverse ethnic markets. “Gone are the days when businesses succeed with a ‘one size fits all’ approach to marketing. It’s a ‘mass market’ no longer,” insists Rhonda Albey, a diversity consultant with Allen Associates in Los Angeles, “The multicultural markets are where the opportunities are, and successful entrepreneurs are quickly learning how to get there.”

According to the Association of National Advertisers (ANA) the predominant ethnic market segments being targeted by multicultural marketers are Hispanic (70%), African-American (59%) and Asian American (27%). In many places, these and other multicultural markets exert such demographic and economic influence that they’re inevitable targets. (source: http://www.Emarketer.com, 11-6-02).

Wherever they are, however, businesses must monitor and adapt to changes in their marketplace. The view out there can change quickly, and it’s a mistake to take any significant market segment in your area for granted. Even with all the right products and services you’ll still need the right message, in the right place, at the right time to reach the ethnic markets you want to be doing business with.

Do-it-yourself online research and homegrown multicultural marketing initiatives can help you identify and develop local ethnic market segments. But for some, outsourcing may be the way to go. For example, Multicultural Marketing Resources, Inc., (www.multiculturalmarketingresources.com), a NYC-based public relations and marketing company, is helping businesses and entrepreneurs reach multicultural markets nationwide.

Population Growth and Economic Clout Tell Powerful Stories

Overall, says Multicultural Marketing Resources’, Lisa Skriloff: “The African-American, Hispanic and Asian populations have a combined buying power of more than a trillion dollars and minority populations are fast becoming the majority population in major markets.” But shifts in thinking toward culturally based marketing–targeting ethnic segments based on their cultural framework–will expand, creating multicultural marketing opportunities in still new ethnic segments in places where they are numerically significant.

California diversity consultant, Rhonda Albey, cautions: “Appreciate the diversity within groups as well as among groups. Terms like ‘Hispanic’ and ‘Asian’ are frequently used without acknowledging the wide-variety of peoples such terms include. ‘Asian’ can refer to any one of hundreds of nationalities, language groups and cultures. Entrepreneurs need to be aware that what appeals to Chinese-Americans in California may have little appeal for Korean-Americans in New York, although they’re all Asian-Americans.”

Culture as much, if not more than age, income, occupation or sex, is the main difference between ethnic markets and the general marketplace. Differing cultural backgrounds may mean consumers will never see or hear marketing messages that are not relevant to their cultural behavior, language or media preferences. And many businesses have yet to realize that Hispanics, Asians and blacks, among other market segments–multicultural or otherwise–have buying preferences that can be a key ingredient in marketing and selling to them.

But what if you haven’t been making the most of multicultural marketing opportunities that could be all around you?

How to Work Multicultural Marketing Into Your Marketing Plans?

Assuming you have a marketing plan, an important first step in multicultural marketing is knowing your audience, followed by improving your existing market penetration (you may want to get busy developing attractive new target markets, but first understand the inherent risks and costs, and explore opportunities to grow from within). If you can’t meet your goals with existing marketing opportunities–or you want to aim even higher–you probably should be developing new market segments. That means checking your sales forecasts and expense budget, and seeking ways to increase the return on your marketing investment.

As does all market planning, multicultural marketing needs to include research to determine who is buying your products and services, and why. Any market segment’s unique make-up defines its needs, suggesting products to sell and methods to use, and if it’s right for you; solid information about the wants, needs and objectives of potential clients is essential in making sound marketing decisions. Surveys of prospects and clients and informal interviews are useful research tools for agents and advisors in areas where one or more ethnic groups predominate.

Multicultural market planning continues with customer profiles–word-pictures of the people you’re looking for summarizing what these groups mean to you, what you do for the group, and why. Example: “The person I do business with is a young black professional or executive who is married, politically conservative, and has the potential of earning $100,000 a year by age 40. This market has grown substantially from when I started in this business 10 years ago, and I’ve been able to develop a steady market presence. As a result, networking opportunities and qualified referrals are easy–but I have to keep my eye on the ball and know my stuff.”

Market positioning then allows you to focus your resources and expertise as they apply to your market segments and think through the messages you wish to communicate to create competitive advantages. Your positioning statement should be well thought out and lend itself to professional identity branding. Your “brand”–reputation, integrity, performance, credentials, distinctive competencies and other key factors–shows in everything you do and differentiates you from your competition. Establish your brand up front: in conversation, in writing and in what you make people think about.

A marketing strategy is your formal plan for entering and systematically developing multicultural market segments and achieving your goals. It coordinates your positioning statement, customer profiles and professional identity brand with tools and techniques for establishing yourself in these market segments while servicing and expanding your existing client base. Once you have a plan, you’ll need to implement, manage and sustain it. It’s also important to remain focussed on your long-term goals. And to stay motivated!

You can adopt these steps to any market segment; what’s most important is thinking strategically about how you will find, get, and keep customers. Because marketing in the U.S. is becoming more like global marketing, market planning must proceed from an understanding of cultural differences the better to evaluate the need for adjustments to strategies and tactics. Commenting on the potential growth of multicultural marketing, Lisa Skriloff predicts: “Businesses that have not invested in multicultural marketing will be forced to reevaluate or be left behind.”

Want More? Send questions and comments to w.willard3@knology.net.

Bill Willard has also been writing high-impact marketing and sales training primarily for the financial services industry for 30 years—but as Will Rogers put it: “Even if you’re on the right track, you’ll get run over if you just sit there.” Through interactive, Web-based “Do-While-Learning™” programs, enewsletters and straight-talking articles, Bill helps SBOs and independent professionals get the job done: profitably improving performance, helping grow your business, skipping expensive mistakes, making the journey to small-business success faster, smoother, easier. And fun!

Do you remember the first time you saw your favorite Disney movie?

How would you like to relive the magic and be able to see your favorite Disney movies any time you wanted to?

Movies On VHS And DVD

With movies available on VHS and DVD, you can enjoy your favorite Disney movies any time you want, in the comfort of your home through the convenience of the Disney Movie Club.

The Movies You Love – The Best Movies On The Planet

Enjoy classics like Mary Poppins, Swiss Family Robinson and Alice in Wonderland or more recent movies like Pirates of the Caribbean, The Chronicles of Narnia and Chicken Little. The Disney library of movies and videos is one of the very best libraries of family entertainment on the planet.

Walt Disney Had A Dream

Years ago with pen in hand, Walt Disney drew a character he called Mortimer Mouse. Mortimer was a cute and happy little fellow with an endearing voice (Walt’s).

Then Mortimer’s name was changed to Mickey — and Walt Disney and the world would never be the same.

Walt Disney movies and the Disney Studios have given us wonderfully animated entertainment, exciting True Life nature films, movies that transport us through incredible adventures, enchanting tales and beautiful worlds of fantasy.

Disney’s high quality, state-of-the-art production values have given us movies that have come to mean so much to generations around the world.

Remember The Magic

As a kid, I still remember how excited I was when the latest Walt Disney Movie came to town. The stories were wonderful, the characters were always fun and memorable and the music always fit the movie perfectly. And I could hardly wait to see them.

And as I sat in the darkened theatre magically transported into the story that was flickering up there on that big silver screen, I had no idea that so many of Disney’s movies would become cherished classics that I would never forget.

Movies Today

You’ve heard it… You may have even said it…

Its getting harder and harder to find a really good movie playing at a local theatre.

There are exceptions, but for the most part, the art of good story telling in movies seems to have been replaced by movies that are loud, violent and laced with profanity. And as a parent you really have to be careful about what your child sees at the movie theatre.

The Disney Movie Club

Imagine being able to choose a wonderful classic family movie you’d like to see again, or a more recent movie release you’d like to add to your library.

Enjoy your favorites once again AND introduce your children to these excellent movies for the first time. Oh, and the Club delivers the movies right to your mail box.

What a great way to build your home movie and video library with a fantastic collection of movies and videos your entire family will enjoy.

The Disney Movie Club features all the great Disney classics (except for titles that are “in the vault”), and just looking over the list of their movies is exciting.

Another great feature is their videos for all ages. From the incredibly popular Baby Einstein series (a favorite of my youngest granddaughter), to preschool sing-a-longs and Disney originals.

Family Movies Are Best

Great Disney movies continue to thrill audiences world-wide and isn’t it interesting that many of the best and most popular movies are family films? And again, its the stories and characters we remember.

Your Favorites

Walt Disney had a dream. And that dream has given us so many wonderful memories, memories we can easily share with our children.

Do you remember your favorite Disney movie?

Relive the magic… You deserve it… And hey, share some of the magic with your child. They’ll love you for it.

Have fun

Mike Dougherty is a screenwriter and champion of family movies. For a FREE kid’s activity movie script visit http://fun-kid-birthday-parties.com/birthday-movie-adventure.html